From humble beginnings to a culinary icon
Just like the lobster roll, the bouillabaisse has also evolved from the food for the poor to the delicacy of haute cuisine. This signature dish from Marseille started several centuries ago as a humble fishermen’s meal. Lower-quality bony fish that was hard to sell was cooked in the sea water or broth with whatever other ingredients were around. With time, gradually, higher-quality fish was added, as well as tomatoes, saffron, garlic, fennel, and olive oil, and now many restaurants in Marseille restaurants offer it for upwards of 50 euros (but if you step out of the centre, you can find a better deal). Preparing it takes time. The actual fish is cooked and served last. First, the delicious broth is simmered for a long time, cooking all parts of the fish with herbs, tomatoes, saffron etc. Then it is all well strained, so the good bits of fish make it through and thicken the broth, but bones remain separated. That broth is served first, typically with garlic-rubbed croutons and rouille (garlic, saffron and chili sauce). Traditionally, you spread some rouille on the croutons which are then put into the broth to absorb the soup’s flavour and soften up. Then the fish is served.
Apart from the fact that it is delicious, I really like the idea of not wasting any part of the fish in preparing this meal. In Marseille, it is a must-have. Bon appétit!